The Pattern Hacking is Melting My Brain: S2174

I’ve spent the last handful of days messing about with a new pattern, Simplicity 2174, which I guess it’s out of print now, since I can’t find it on the website.

2174

I wanted originally to pattern hack my Simplicity 1104 (see versions 1 and 2) , and I did some, changing both the neckline and the flare of the skirt, but after that point, the weird curve of the pieces got too complicated. I couldn’t even figure out where theĀ  waistline was!

Instead, I decided to do this pattern, because it would be a lot easier to fit and it has sleeves. Yeah, I dug around in my saved tutorials to find the ‘draft a sleeve’ instructions, but when I traced out the shape, I got nothing remotely like the tutorial showed.

I opted for view B after tracing out view C’s sleeves and finding them waaay to short. I had to let out the vertical seams a little so I could have some breathing room, which I did while shaving the 1 inch seam allowance to 5/8th in. Which, oh my god, took forever. This pattern has so many pieces, it took a day to cut and trace everything, another day to sew up a muslin, and then a third to reduce the seams.

The other issues I discovered, was that the skirt is barely flowy at all, which is something I really liked in the 1104. I compared the two skirts’ hem length, and the 1104 had 25 more inches! I tried to slash and spread the pattern, after doing all the math (which oh my god), but trying the do the skirt front side, realized what a mess the pocket is going to cause.

At this point, I’m not sure if I want to flare it out after the pocket (what I originally did), flare out all of the seams, or draft a circle skirt and save the pockets for a second version.

The fabric I wanted to use for this pattern has a lot of lovely drape that I think would be lost in a skirt that isn’t very full. Besides, the large amount of twirl is what makes the 1104 so much fun to wear. If I could puzzle it out, I would take the skirt off of the 1104, but as I said, It’s still pretty beyond me.

I want something like these two dresses, but with those neck and sleeve details of the pattern.

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I want to finish it in time to go to a local festival, but the more I want this dress to be perfect, the deadline seems shorter and shorter.

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